In the current scenario, the operator selection process mostly comprises of methods which have been continuing for the past 4 decades with no new technique to align with new technologies and consequently new skills required. Common methods used worldwide include peg-board test for testing finger dexterity of sewing operators, sewing paper exercises commonly used for initial machine control training, predominantly teaching on single needle lockstitch machines without any attachments and work aids, and so on. How useful these tests are in the current scenario is a critical question… and StitchWorld strongly feels there is a serious need to challenge these practiced rules.
It is well known that sewing workers require good stamina to work at a sustained pace throughout the shift hours drawing similarities between long distance runners and sewing operators. Whereas over the years, the training procedures in sports has improved tremendously with help of technology, but for the garment operators it remains the same! This article by Dr. Prabir Jana, Professor, NIFT, New Delhi questions the effectiveness of certain stereotype skilling techniques and the use of technology to improve effectiveness of skill training and also in de-skilling certain operations.
Peg board test has no relation to performance
The peg board test was one of the most commonly used recruitment tests for assembly line operators, to test the finger dexterity of incumbents predominantly for electronic equipment and semi-conductor industry. The work involved handling screws, tags and other such items of multiple colours to be fitted as per colour coding and to mimic such requirements peg board recruitment tests were designed. Since the large garment sewing factories came into existence and finger dexterity in a worker is the common requirement between both set of industry workers, some commonly adopted the peg board test for garment industry workers too. But over the years nobody realized or questioned the veracity of holding a peg like object does not exist for sewing operators! A recent study conducted at the Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, New Delhi reveals that sewing skill of an operator does not have any co-relation with their performance in peg-board test.
Paper exercise tests only quality, not the methods
Another stereotype exercise is paper sewing that has been followed since last five decades for imparting machine control skill to sewing machine operator trainees. Although it is true that paper is easier to handle than fabric for beginners, and paper exercises are assumed as a stepping stone for sewing operators to learn sewing skill, it has never ever proven that paper exercises are better to teach sewing skill than exposing the trainees to fabric from beginning.
One can only emphasize on quality of the sewn output through paper exercises, rather than the material handling method. Paper exercises will fail to teach the correct handling method and emphasis on method is lost in the process.
Use of attachments and work aids in sewing operator training
Sewing operators are taught to sew on marked lines (both straight as well as curved) to improve their accuracy; this is like teaching your child to draw a straight line without using ruler. The question remains, is there a necessity in doing so? The edge guides and compensating presser feet are like ruler for sewing straight lines; why not teach the operators to sew using these sewing aids? When the technology is available why not use it to maximum advantage? Use of these attachments and work aids will reduce the training period significantly, promote/encourage use of attachments and work aids in sewing floor bottoms up. There are many cascading positive effects like significantly lesser cost of training, quality standardization and process standardization thereon.
Use videography in garment construction and machine maintenance training
Although use of power point presentations and interactive e-learning methodology for teaching theoretical subjects is common, teaching skill related subjects still follows the age-old manual demonstration technique. Demonstration based skill training requires a very high teacher to student ratio to become effective, over the years’ time and cost pressure on training institutions forced them to compromise the ratio resulting in loss of effectiveness in training. Clever use of video camera in skill training can address high teacher to student ratio while introducing clarity and repeatability in training.
Machine maintenance training is another area where use of video camera can help immensely. Explaining the setting, attachment and function of small parts inside a machine can be better explained when a zoomed video image is displayed on a screen. Every participant can see with equal clarity and can be replayed later to study again.
Use videography and computerized motion analysis
Motion analysis or method study conducted by industrial engineers involve preparation of two handed process chart, identify unwanted motions and/or idle situations and suggest modifying motion sequence if possible. Although it reads simple, this is the most difficult job and rarely will you find a capable person to teach. Although video analysis of body parts is common in sports, not too many uses are found in apparel manufacturing. In a recent study conducted by NIFT, video recording of the sewing operation is done with placing a tracking marker in different parts of moving body parts. The video is then further analysed by using specialized software to calculate the distance travelled, angle of movement and pace of movement by different hand parts like wrist and forearm. This motion analysis technique is simple but effective and the operator does not require any IE expertise! It is also a perfect example of deskilling by use of technology.