Unanimously hailed as a major value addition in the Resort and Spring/Summer collections 2015, pleats have moved beyond the simple fabric folding technique to multiple interpretations. Though commonly seen in the neat box pleated uniform skirts, they now come in a variety of forms, manipulations and versions, and are no longer seen as a summer trend. The recently concluded Pre-Fall 2015 collections carried the trend forward using pleats in stiffer fabrics, with many designers trying to enhance their creations with pleating and origami. Taking a cue from the runways, Indian exporters are now incorporating pleats and tucks in their collections…
Be it a high-waist midi silk skirt, a floor length chiffon dress, or a subtle accent on an ensemble, finely placed accordion pleats, bias pleats and knife pleats are bringing a touch of graceful fluidity and movement into garments. With winter wardrobes also welcoming pleated skirts, culottes and shirts, garment manufacturers and exporters are fast picking up the trendy elements from the runways and incorporating them in their designs. According to Anima Singh, Assistant Designer, Sult Exports, “Pleating is trending in a big way and is seeing a lot of experimentation and innovation. For our own A/W ’15-16 developments, we are using jersey fabrics and making ruffles and pleats out of them. We are also working with a mix of varied knits and are adding pleats on the necklines and hems to many styles. Pleats lend a peppy, fun look to garments and they break the monotony in a standard design. We are mostly catering to Jabong and their collaboration with Rohit Bal”.
The Pre-Fall ’15 collections witnessed multiple interpretations of the classic pleat technique with an amalgamation of arty twists, folds and curves. Emerging from a structured and buckled waist, pleats fell on one side of the calf-length skirts, forming the double skirt at ALC. An assembly of heat set creases were elegantly put together in separates and dresses by Paule Ka and Cushnie et Ochs. A series of knife and accordion pleats (a favoured technique for the season) were elegantly laid on leather and panelled skirts, on short flowy dresses and knitted versions by designers like Givenchy, Ohne Titel, Temperley London and Veronique Branquinho. Ohne Titel also attempted boxy pleating, a major technique in S/S ’15 on coated fabrics, which hinted at pleating becoming popular season on season.
Rajesh Kumat, Director, Ganga Exports Pvt. Ltd. (exporter of readymade garments), who also sees pleating as a huge trend in Fall 2015 says, “We experiment a lot with fabric manipulation to complement our USP, which is thread embroidery. Pleating is definitely one of our focus areas this season. We are doing shirring, ruching and gathering with elastic stitching for waistbands, and all-over smocking on dresses and tops as well. Keeping the conventional knife pleat aside, we are also exploring block/inverted block pleats, sun pleats, and undulated pleats and tucks.” Precision pleats have the potential to update a winter workwear collection. Crisp and clean, they add a fresh and refined element to an ensemble.
Having been over-exploited already on summer’s freshest cottons, pleats have now paved their way into light and heavy knits to suit winter requirements. Dheeraj Pajni, Senior Merchandiser, Kimo Clothing Design Concept Pvt. Ltd. informs that instead of pleating the garment, they have used heat-set pleated fabric this time in poly-satin. “We are employing pleats in the yoke, waistband or hem to basically highlight that area and draw attention to the garment,” he says. Portrayed in shimmering metallic editions, pleated skirts and trousers are being put together using heat setting and tucking techniques to go with sheer cardigans or silk blouses to make a harmonious ensemble. Sucheta V. Merh, Creative Head at Earthy Myths, elaborating on her collection says, “This time, we are focusing on knife pleats as they are very fine, instead of the bigger box pleats. We are using different kinds of linen, cotton and jerseys, which have beautiful prints inspired by art nouveau, colour block and placement printing.”
Taking a very forward-looking approach and inspiration from the quote, ‘The best of both worlds’, ALC created a sort of double skirt. It is a conventional pencil skirt or the structured A-line mini, with a pleated skirt peeking out from the side, and is also referred to as a sidekick skirt by many fashion followers. This technique of combining pleating with a normal silhouette effortlessly brings out asymmetry, deconstruction and layering and draws attention to the ensemble. But not many manufacturers and exporters are translating these runway rockers into export orders as the trend hasn’t really trickled down to mainstream fashion as yet. Ashish Garg, Owner, A.G. Fashion, anticipating the pleating trend becoming bigger and better in Fall avers, “It was big last summer because our clients were asking for pleats, and the trend is going to continue this winter as well, though in a very minimal quantity, like only as edging, etc. but it is going to be very visible.”
Showing off their origami skills, designers are crafting skirts and dresses that ripple with razor-sharp pleats. Veronique Branquinho presented an exquisite amalgamation of box, knife and accordion pleats. This complex pleating included three panels of grey mélange jerseys going to and fro into pleats in varied sizes, providing the skirt with an added third dimension. A similar effect, though not so compact, can be created with heat setting machinery on poly fabrics. A range of machine manufactures like Confident Engineering India Pvt. Ltd., Pack Pack India Pvt. Ltd. and Keenmark Inc. have installed heat setting machines in export houses to meet market demand.
The recently concluded Pre-Fall 2015 collections have confirmed that the trend and fascination for pleats is going to continue. Be it knife, accordion, box, double-box, superfine crystal pleats, or precise folds on blouses, bottoms and dresses, pleats have raised an ensemble’s sophisticated look a notch higher, and becoming a classic surface manipulation technique for summer as well as fall creations.